The complete guide on how to wear a suit.
In which situation ?
You should wear a suit in formal or professional situations where a polished and refined appearance is expected. These include:
- Business Meetings: Important meetings, interviews, or presentations in corporate or professional settings.
- Weddings and Formal Events: As a guest or participant in weddings, galas, or other formal gatherings.
- Funerals: To show respect in solemn and respectful ceremonies.
- Court Appearances: When attending court, whether as a lawyer, witness, or defendant, to present a respectful and serious demeanor.
- High-End Dining or Social Events: When dining at upscale restaurants or attending social clubs with a formal dress code.
In general, wear a suit whenever you need to convey professionalism, respect, or adherence to formal dress codes.
Presentation of Suit Parts
- Collar: The upper part of the shirt that encircles the neck. It is often visible above the suit jacket.
- Tie: A long piece of cloth worn around the neck, tied in a knot or bow, that rests between the collar and the shirt.
- Lapels: The folded flaps of fabric on the front of the jacket, extending from the collar to the buttons. They add structure and style to the suit.
- Shirt: The formal garment worn underneath the jacket, typically with a collar and buttons down the front.
- Breast Pocket: A pocket located on the left side of the chest, often used for holding a pocket square or small items.
- Waistcoat (Vest): A sleeveless garment worn over the shirt and beneath the jacket, often buttoned up the front.
- Button: Fasteners on the suit jacket or waistcoat, essential for closure and fit.
- Cross Pocket: The angled front pocket on the trousers, designed for easy access.
- Pants: The lower part of the suit, covering the legs, tailored to match the jacket and waistcoat.
- Flap Pockets: Pockets on the front of the jacket, covered by a flap of fabric, commonly used for aesthetics rather than storage.
- Cuffs: The end part of the sleeves, which may be adorned with buttons or decorative stitching.
- Zipper Fly: The zippered opening on the trousers, used for putting on and taking off the pants.
- Shoulder: The upper part of the suit jacket, extending from the neck to the sleeve, often padded for structure.
- Back Vent: A slit at the back of the jacket, allowing for more movement and a better fit when seated.
- Welted Pocket: A type of pocket on the back of the trousers, typically with a narrow strip of fabric (welt) covering the opening.
- Sleeve Button: Decorative or functional buttons on the cuffs of the jacket sleeves.
- Hem: The bottom edge of the trousers or jacket, often folded and sewn to finish the garment neatly.
How to Wear a Suit: Essential Tips
- Belt Selection: Choose a belt that is relatively thin, between 1 to 1.5 inches wide. Thinner belts (around 1 inch) are ideal for men with a waist size of 34 inches or smaller. Ensure your belt matches your shoes and, if applicable, your watch’s leather band for a cohesive look.
- Tie Bar Length: Your tie bar should be the correct length, which means it should cover more than half of your tie but not extend to the other edge. This subtle detail enhances the overall appearance of your outfit.
- Buttoning Rules: Adhere to the “sometimes, always, never” rule for buttoning your suit:
- Three-Button Suit: The top button is sometimes buttoned when standing, the middle button is always buttoned, and the bottom button is never buttoned.
- Two-Button Suit: The top button should always be buttoned, while the bottom button should never be.
- Vests and Cardigans: Follow the same buttoning rules as your suit jacket.
- Unbutton Before Sitting: Always unbutton your suit jacket before sitting down. Keeping it buttoned will cause the fabric to pull awkwardly, leading to a strained and unflattering appearance. This tension can also cause buttons to pop off unexpectedly, so it’s best to avoid the risk.
Tips for Harmonizing Colors and Patterns in a Suit
- Color Coordination:
- Dark Blue Suit: Pair with a white or sky-blue shirt and a burgundy, blue, or brown tie for a balanced look.
- Black or Grey Suit: Match with a white shirt and opt for a black, burgundy, or yellow tie.
- Brown Suit: Combine with a beige or white shirt, and choose a tie in a different shade of brown for contrast.
- Consider Your Skin Tone:
- Dark or Olive Skin: Go for strong contrasts, like a white shirt with a black, blue, red, or green suit and tie.
- Light Skin: Opt for softer, more muted combinations, such as a sky-blue shirt with a navy suit, a beige shirt with a brown suit, or a white shirt with a grey suit.
- Avoid Clashing Geometric Patterns:
- Do not mix stripes with checks. For example, avoid pairing a striped shirt with a checked suit.
- Be cautious when combining patterns like a regimental tie with a checked shirt, unless the patterns vary significantly in size.
- Color and Stripe Combinations:
- When wearing a striped shirt, select a suit or blazer that echoes the primary color of the stripes. For instance, a white shirt with sky-blue stripes pairs well with a solid blue suit.
- Avoid overloading on stripes by combining a striped shirt, striped tie, and striped suit together, as this often results in a clashing look.
- Use the Itten Color Wheel:
- To create harmonious color combinations, refer to the Itten color wheel, a tool used by top fashion designers. Colors opposite each other on the wheel form a complementary pair, while colors forming a triangle or rectangle also create visually pleasing combinations. This approach helps avoid mismatched colors and leaves a positive impression.
Tips on How to Match a Watch with Your Suit
- Match the Formality:
- For formal suits (like those worn to weddings or business meetings), choose a classic, dress watch with a thin case, leather strap, and a simple dial. Black or brown leather straps pair well with most formal suits.
- For less formal suits (like those worn for a night out or casual events), a watch with a metal bracelet or a more intricate dial can be appropriate.
- Coordinate Metals and Colors:
- If your suit has silver accents (like cufflinks or belt buckles), opt for a watch with a silver case. Similarly, gold accents pair best with a gold-toned watch.
- Ensure the color of the watch strap complements your shoes and belt. For example, a black strap with black shoes and a black belt, or a brown strap with brown accessories.
- Consider the Watch Size:
- The size of the watch should be proportional to your wrist and the suit. A large, bulky watch can overwhelm a slim-fit suit, while a very small watch might look out of place with a broader-shouldered suit.
- Dial Simplicity:
- The simpler the dial, the more versatile the watch. A clean, uncluttered dial is ideal for pairing with any suit, while more complex dials with multiple features are better suited for less formal occasions.
- Strap Material:
- Leather straps are ideal for formal settings, adding a touch of elegance to your outfit. Metal bracelets can also work but are generally more suited to business-casual or semi-formal settings.
- Watch Type:
- A dress watch is the safest bet for formal suits, while a chronograph or diver’s watch can be worn with more casual suits. However, avoid sports watches with overly casual or rugged features, as they clash with the sophistication of a suit.
More Tips
- Tie and Lapel Coordination: The width of your tie should match the width of your lapel. A thin tie with thick lapels, or vice versa, can create an unbalanced look. Ensuring both are in style and proportionate keeps your appearance sharp and modern.
- Tie Length: Your tie should reach just to the waistband of your trousers or the top of your belt buckle. A tie that’s too long can make you look shorter, while one that’s too short can appear unkempt and unflattering.
- Jacket Length: The length of your suit jacket should be enough to cover your pant zipper and the seat of your pants. While trends fluctuate between longer or shorter jackets, sticking to this classic length will ensure a timeless and flattering fit.
- Button Placement: For a two-button jacket, the top button (or the middle button on a three-button jacket) should sit at or just above your navel, creating a balanced and proportional silhouette.
- Sleeve Cuffs: Expose about a quarter inch of your shirt cuffs beneath your jacket sleeves. This subtle detail adds a touch of sophistication to your overall look.
- Sock Length: Make sure your socks are long enough to cover your legs when sitting down. Exposed skin can break the polished look of a well-fitted suit.
- Tailoring: A skilled tailor can significantly improve the fit and feel of a suit, even if it no longer fits as it once did. Investing in alterations can help you maintain a comfortable and stylish appearance.
Choosing the right watch to complement your suit can elevate your entire look, adding a layer of sophistication and style that makes you feel confident and put-together.